Saturday mornings in Xaló mean a slow wander along the riverbed, where the rastro spreads out under the trees. It's a proper jumble: old furniture, brocante, chipped enamel jugs, crates of vinyl, garden tools and the odd thing you'll never need but somehow want. Half the fun is the haggling, and you'll hear plenty of English among the stalls, since this corner of the valley has long been a magnet for expats.
Right alongside it sits the Mercat de la Terra, the farmers' market, and this is where I'd spend my money. Wine and mistela from the valley, local cheese, fresh bread, eggs, tomatoes still warm from the sun, handmade soap and woven baskets. There's usually live music drifting over and a few food stalls to keep you going. Come summer the farmers' side shifts to the cooler evening, which is the sensible time to be there anyway.