The displays go up around half past ten each night, once the sky's properly dark, over the little bay at Punta del Miracle. It's a natural amphitheatre of a spot, which is why the crowds along the seafront swell to tens of thousands; people bring towels, picnics and a bottle of something cold and settle in well before showtime. Each of the four teams gets one night to make its case, firing a choreographed display set to music, and the judges are watching closely.
The stakes are real: whoever wins earns the right to fire the big show at Santa Tecla, the city's September festival. Come early, walk down towards the water for an uninterrupted view, and bring a jumper for the breeze coming off the sea once the sun's gone.
