Pollença out of season is a different town: the square empties, the locals get their cafés back, and in November the fair arrives. It is an old-style Mallorcan fira — the kind that exists to sell things to islanders — and the weekend it runs is the busiest the old town gets between October and Easter.

What to expect. Craft and produce stands filling the streets around the Plaça Major, island food to taste and take home, livestock and agricultural displays, and a lot of standing about eating. Expect Mallorcan to be the language you hear. It is free, it is outdoors, and it is entirely unbothered about whether visitors turn up.

Practical bit. Dates shift each year — the second weekend of November is the usual pattern — so check with the ajuntament before booking around it. November on this coast is quiet and often warm enough to sit outside. The 365-step Calvari climb and the Formentor road are both far more pleasant now than in August, and a hire car is the only realistic way to do Formentor at all.