For four June evenings, Puerto del Rosario hands its main square over to ideas and noise. The daytime side leans literary and Spanish-language: a book launch from journalist Roger Mateos, a session on misinformation and digital snooping led by elDiario.es editor Ignacio Escolar, plus a graffiti show on counterculture over at the Casa de la Cultura. Don't worry if your Spanish is patchy, because the music does the talking after dark.
Things build towards the closing night on Plaza de la Paz, when Canarian band Melon Diesel headline and Decadencia run through a set of Heroes del Silencio covers, with local groups filling out the bill. There's also a film-soundtrack concert the night before. It's all free, open-air and easy to wander into, with the town in a good mood.