Fiestas del Carmen (Festival of Our Lady of Mount Carmel)

Los Realejos throws itself into this for the best part of a month, with seventy-odd free events spread across July. Most are gentle: folk and zarzuela concerts, open-air cinema, a wine-and-potato fiesta built around the local papa bonita, even a children's water festival and a classic-car rally. The Virgin, named honorary mayor of the town, is carried through the streets more than once, and around her feast day on 16 July the sanctuary doors open at midnight.

The thing that pulls people in, though, is the fireworks. Two rival streets stage a three-hour pyrotechnic duel that locals reckon is the biggest in the Canaries, the sky over town going more or less continuously bright while everyone cranes their necks. Pick a spot early, expect crowds, and bring a bit of patience. Exact dates shift year to year, so check before you travel.