Every Tuesday morning the car park on Calle Vicente Blasco Ibáñez fills up with stalls, and the whole thing has the easy rhythm of a market that mostly serves the people who live here. You'll find crates of fruit and veg sold by the kilo, racks of cheap clothing and household odds and ends, and a van turning out spit-roast chickens that tend to sell out before lunch. Prices are low and nobody's pushy.

It's a short, walkable affair rather than a big tourist draw, which is rather the point. Bring a few euros in cash, go early while it's cool and the produce is at its best, and pick up a chicken for later. No Spanish needed, though a buenos días goes down well.