Festes del Porrat (Patron Saint Fiesta)

Polop does its big knees-up each August, and it's the unvarnished version: a hill village turning out for the Virgin of the Assumption and Sant Roc rather than putting on a show for tourists. Expect early-morning despertaes rattling you awake with drums and bangers, a floral offering and mass, and a Saturday pilgrimage up to Sant Roc. The squares fill nightly for verbenas, open-air dances that run late, and on the Friday rival marching bands square off in a proper battle, brass against brass.

The Humour Parade is the one to catch, all home-made costumes and gentle local mickey-taking. There are popular aperitifs to graze on, fireworks, processions, and games for the children. Two festival queens and their courts preside over the lot. It's all free, and the welcome is warm if you wander up from the coast.