L'Estartit throws its big summer party over the last weekend of July, and it's the sort of thing you wander into rather than queue for. Friday kicks off at the port, where a Trojan Horse procession and DJs lead a young, noisy crowd up to Plaça de la Llevantina. Saturday slows down a touch: Laura Ribes plays a singer-songwriter set in Plaça de l'Església at nine, then over in Plaça de la Llevantina a local choir takes on the havaneres, those old sea shanties best heard with a drink in hand.

Sunday is the proper Catalan day. There's a sung mass in the Santa Anna church, sardana circles forming in the square at midday and again early evening, and the Montecarlo orchestra rounding it all off with a late dance. It's all free, all outdoors, and refreshingly local.