The mussels here don't travel far. They're grown in the bays of the Ebro Delta, hauled in, and on the plate within a day, which is the whole point of these ten-odd days each June. Around nineteen restaurants and a handful of fishmongers in Deltebre put on special mussel menus and tapas, so you can eat your way through a town that takes this shellfish seriously.

There's no fuss to it. You walk in, ask for the mussel menu, and see what the kitchen has done, perhaps a steamed pot with lemon, perhaps something with rice or a sauce worth mopping up. Prices run from a few euros for a tapa to around forty-five for a full menu, so you can graze cheaply or sit down properly.