Each September, Tarifa throws its biggest party of the year at the fairground by the seafront, and the whole town turns out. The casetas are where the action is: marquees serving fried fish and jamon, glasses of cold sherry, and live music that runs well past the point most of us would call a night. Entry costs nothing, so wander in, find a busy one, and order what the next table is having.
The highlight is the Cabalgata Agricola, a parade of horses and riders in full Andalusian get-up that has earned the festival regional recognition. Things turn quieter on 8 September, the day given over to the Virgen de la Luz herself. Dates shift a little year to year, so check locally before setting your heart on a particular evening.
