Real Feria of Tarifa - Virgen de la Luz

Each September, Tarifa throws its biggest party of the year at the fairground by the seafront, and the whole town turns out. The casetas are where the action is: marquees serving fried fish and jamon, glasses of cold sherry, and live music that runs well past the point most of us would call a night. Entry costs nothing, so wander in, find a busy one, and order what the next table is having.

The highlight is the Cabalgata Agricola, a parade of horses and riders in full Andalusian get-up that has earned the festival regional recognition. Things turn quieter on 8 September, the day given over to the Virgen de la Luz herself. Dates shift a little year to year, so check locally before setting your heart on a particular evening.