This is amateur flamenco in the proper sense: not pros chasing a tour, but enthusiasts from across Spain who sing because they can't help it. The early rounds happen inside the old Rosario church, now Vejer's municipal arts centre, where stone walls do strange and lovely things to a voice. Locals from the Aguilar de Vejer flamenco club run the whole thing, and they take their cante seriously.
The part worth planning around is the grand final on 16 August, held outdoors in the floodlit Plaza de España. It's free, it's warm, and you're hearing real Andalusian singing in one of the whitest, prettiest hill villages on the Costa de la Luz. Turn up early for a seat, bring a fan, and let the palmas and the heat carry the night.
