The clever thing here is the two-part rhythm to each evening. At 19:30 the music starts up for free in Plaza Santa María, the little square inside the walled old town, so you can wander down with the family, find a spot on the warm stone steps and listen as the light fades. No ticket, no fuss. Then at 22:30 the headline acts move indoors to the Palacio de Congresos, where the bigger names play full sets.
Over four nights the bill swings from Latin piano fireworks (Michel Camilo) to a French keyboard talent (Thomas Enhco), with electric Miles Davis tributes, classic-jazz all-stars and a couple of lively Valencian big bands in between. Pace yourself: catch the open-air set, grab a drink and a bite in the old town afterwards, then decide whether to splash out on the late concert.
