El Pilar de la Mola sits up on Formentera's eastern plateau, a small village built around a whitewashed church and a square that fills with music once the heat of the day has gone. Through the summer, the players set up on Tuesday nights around ten, and people drift over from the surrounding lanes to sit on the steps and the low walls with a drink and listen.
There's no stage to speak of and no ticket to buy, which is rather the point. The line-up changes week to week, so you take what you get, and that's part of the fun. Get up there before dark for a wander round the village, find a spot on the church steps, then settle in as the music carries across the square. It's a gentle way to spend a warm evening, and the kind of thing locals do too. (The well-known craft market runs separately, on Wednesdays and Sundays.)
