Agüimes is one of those old Canarian towns people drive past on the way to the beach and never stop in, which is exactly why the cobbled main square feels such a treat after dark. On the evening of 10 July the Plaza de Nuestra Señora del Rosario fills with booths from a dozen or so Gran Canaria wineries, the kind whose bottles rarely leave the island, with local restaurants setting up beside them.
The drill is simple. Buy a glass for a euro or two, grab a small plate to go with it, and wander between the stalls while a folk band plays. Bring cash, take your time, and try a few of the island reds and whites you won't find back home. Warm night, low-key crowd, no rush.
