Fiestas of San Antonio in La Pasadilla

Up in the hills above Ingenio, La Pasadilla saves its loudest weekend of the year for San Antonio. The centrepiece is the romeria: seven ox-carts, decked out and creaking along the route, each trailed by ninety or a hundred costumed villagers walking alongside. It is a proper community turnout rather than a show put on for outsiders, and the younger crowd are clearly keeping it going.

Things run late here. Once the carts have passed, Canarian bands play on until around three in the morning, so don't expect an early night if you stay for the music. Sunday is gentler, with midday Mass at the little Ermita de San Antonio followed by a procession out to Lomo Caballo. It is free, the mountain air is a relief from the coast, and the welcome is genuine. Worth the drive up if you fancy seeing how the locals actually celebrate.