This is the sort of day that tells you a town actually likes itself. After a week and a half of masses, processions and midweek dance contests, Breña Baja winds things up on the Sunday with a giant paella cooked for the whole neighbourhood. You don't book, you don't pay, you just rock up around midday, get a plateful and find somewhere to sit while Ilusion Gomera, a folk group over from La Gomera, play through lunch.

There are bouncy castles and games going for the kids, so families settle in for the afternoon. The proper send-off comes at 17:00, when Gran Canaria band Aseres take the stage for the closing concert. It's a local fiesta rather than a tourist set-piece, which is exactly why it's worth turning up for.