The whole thing plays out on the Plaça Major, with riders going round and round the square while the crowd leans in close. It kicks off at 9pm and runs through the warm evening. First come the children's races and the ribbon games, where cyclists try to spear hanging ribbons as they pass, then the proper endurance racing: 20 laps, then 40, lap after lap on the same tight circuit until someone breaks clear. The town band, Unió Artística Murera, keeps the noise up between events.
It's a local affair rather than a tourist spectacle, organised by Muro's sports club as part of the Sant Joan fiestas. Watching costs nothing. Grab a spot at the railings, get a cold drink from a nearby bar, and settle in for an hour or two of village racing.