For most of June, Alicante fills up with towering papier-mache figures (the hogueras) that poke fun at politicians and the year's news. Spend a couple of days wandering between them, then watch the lot go up in flames on the night of 24 June, when a firework palm tree bursts from the castle on Mount Benacantil and the whole city seems to catch light at once. The firefighters hose down the crowds, and plenty of people leap the embers for luck.
Come hungry. The local snack is coca amb tonyina, a flat tuna-and-onion pastry, best with a few early figs. Days are punctuated by ear-splitting midday mascletas, and from 25 to 29 June the fireworks competition takes over Postiguet beach after dark. It is loud, smoky and free, so pack earplugs if you are bringing children.
