Alcalalí is a small inland village above the Jalón valley, and for a week from 23 June it hands itself over to its patron saint. Things kick off when the church bells ring out, a parade winds through the streets and the first fireworks go up. The square sees a different orchestra most nights — Mi Tierra and La Tribu among them, Pacific Blue to close — playing well past midnight, with lime slushies handed round during the folk dancing.
The food is half the reason to come. A giant paella fills the square on the Saturday afternoon, followed that evening by a costume parade, and earlier in the week there's a "torrà" supper of local sausage in carob sauce. Crist de la Salut day brings a bread blessing and "pambenet" loaves shared through the streets. Most of it is free and out in the open. Turn up, follow the noise.