Carboneras is still a proper fishing town, and once a year it puts that front and centre. On 15 August the harbour fills with boats decked out in flags and bunting, and the image of the Virgen del Carmen is carried out to sea while crews follow her around the bay. It's a moving thing to watch from the quayside, half religious, half pure local pride.
Then the smoke starts. The sardinada at the port is the bit most people remember: rows of sardines grilling over open coals, handed out with bread and a glass of Almería wine, no fuss. Evenings bring orchestras and open-air dancing in the plaza, with fireworks over the port to finish. It's free, it's loud in a good way, and it's the kind of fiesta locals turn up to in numbers rather than perform for visitors.
