On the shortest night of the year, the whole of Isla Cristina drifts down to the sand. Families stake out a patch on Playa Central and La Gaviota, bonfires are lit once it's properly dark, and the tradition is to leap over the flames three times for luck and scribble a wish to throw out to sea. Then everyone wades in for the first swim of summer, usually around midnight, even if the water's still a touch cold.
The fishing-port setting earns its keep here. Sardines from the morning market go straight onto open grills, the beach bars stay open until dawn, and there's live music somewhere down the strand. It's a local affair rather than a tourist spectacle, which is rather the point. Bring something warm for the early hours and you'll fit right in.
