Casares marks the shortest night of the year down on Playa Ancha, and it builds slowly. Things kick off around 5pm with a Holy Colors party, inflatables and water games on the sand, so the afternoon belongs to the kids and anyone happy to get soaked. As the heat drops, local dancer Maria Soler takes over with a flamenco set, then Orquesta La Rebelion strikes up and keeps playing either side of midnight.
The real moment comes at midnight, when the San Juan bonfire is lit on the beach. It's an old Midsummer ritual, and the whole stretch of coast does its own version. No Spanish needed to join in, and nothing to pay. Bring something warm for later and you can stay as long as the music does.
