The shortest night of the year is the one Canarians stay up for, and Ingenio keeps the old fire tradition going across its neighbourhoods. From around six in the evening, small bonfires are lit on cleared ground and in squares, kept modest by the rules: nothing taller than a metre or two, well clear of buildings, and out again by ten so people can sleep. Locals gather to watch the flames and swap stories as the embers die down.

Don't head to the beach expecting a blaze. Ingenio bans fires on the sand and the coast, so the action is inland, scattered through the barrios. Wander up after dinner, follow the smoke and the chatter, and you'll find a corner of the town doing what it's done for generations. It's free, unhurried, and the locals' night more than anyone's.